Is sultan steak really the daily special? Jan Moia’s samples sizzle

By on September 27, 2021 0

As you know, I’ve been through a lot of terrible things over the years as a restaurant reviewer. Mackerel in rhubarb syrup. A stew made from a cut of the bear’s choice. Jeremy Clarkson eats dumplings.

Still, there are few sights that compare to the obscenity of charcoal-grilled tomahawk steaks priced at over £ 700 wrapped in 24k gold foil. This is a specialty of the new Nusr-Et steakhouse in London, where prices start on expensive volcanic hills and climb to excessive gold-plated meat blowouts.

Of course, you would think that no one in their right mind would order such a thing? Yet the table next to me only ordered two. They sizzle on a wooden platter and have a meat bar deep in their pockets, which is mouthwatering.

Elsewhere in a crowded restaurant, you’ll find “meat spaghetti” (a thin strip of steak wrapped in a fork and eaten like pasta), a slice of striploin cooked at the table with a frothy cauldron of hot butter, and Moreover. I love Nusr-Et cooking. they or they.

It’s a scene, a wild carnival for wealthy carnivores who don’t mind paying £ 100 for a gold leaf burger and £ 9 for Coca-Cola to wash it. And, surprisingly, just days after the restaurant opened in Knightsbridge, there was no shortage of takers.

At lunchtime on Saturdays, joints pop and state-of-the-art charcoal grills sizzle, but the hottest spot has to be owner Nusret Gökçe himself. Nusret Gökçe creates ripples of excitement every time he appears on the floor.

At lunchtime on Saturdays, joints pop and state-of-the-art charcoal grills sizzle, but the hottest spot has to be owner Nusret Gökçe (pictured 2017) himself. ground

Today, a 38-year-old man wears a trendy bow tie and gold fringed sunglasses and has his hair tied back with a manbang. Small and muscular, he is believed to be as compact as an acrobat and delighted to look like Johnny Depp. “I’m not a movie star, but I can take pictures after walking the streets hundreds of times,” he said recently. “I never say no. “

Until 2017, Nusret was another chef who turned to a Turkish butcher. It was well known in the Middle East for the glitz of fine grill restaurants and steak slices, but hardly anywhere else.

Then his meme of preparing and seasoning meat in his “sultry” way became an internet sensation. Currently, he has 38 million followers on Instagram and is worth millions. ‘Wow! ‘That’s his slogan. There are few originals, but like some thick mustard frostings on his steak, it sticks.

On the screen and in the meat, Nusret strokes the meat, beats it, chops it with the precision of the surgeon, then sprinkles salt on the resistant part in a viral way.

With his arms folded like a swan’s neck, he bounces crystals from his muscular forearms onto the steak. “I wanted the salt to look like it came from the sky. It was my golden touch, ”he says. Today he is known as the “Meat King” and “the sexiest butcher in the world”, but the latter was not very competitive.

What’s Happening Once upon a time, chefs needed TV shows, books, or at least great recipes to be famous. However, it only took 37 seconds of salty play for Nusret to secure his fame and fortune.

Today it bears the nickname Salt Bae, a chain of 17 restaurants around the world. Rihanna wears a T-shirt in her image, and David Beckham and Lionel Messi are fans of it. Boxer Conor McGregor eats £ 800 of gold steak at Nusr-Et in Dubai, and actor Jason Statham visits a branch in Beverly Hills. Nusret claims enthusiastic customer Leonardo DiCaprio described his steak as “the best meat he’s ever eaten in his life.”

The London restaurant is the last outpost and has been delayed due to Covid. Here, each table is topped with Nusr-Et brand cutlery and, surprisingly, a pair of steel tongs. Despite Leo’s words, I’m not too impressed with the first course, the steak tartare (£ 40) served on a wooden board decorated with skillful smears of mustard and tomato ketchup.

Instead of a regular hand-minced steak, this tartare looks like some kind of hellish meat jam with the texture of a mashed potato lipstick. Despite the vibrant addition of capers and seasonings, it doesn’t have anything at all.

But don’t worry, Salt Bae is in us! Nuslet walks through the restaurant in a majestic procession, alongside two photographers of the house (I’m not a kid you), then a bowl of salt crystals behind the master like Balthazar with myrrh. Tracking of its salt carrier doing the transport work.

Nusret knows what is expected of him. At each table he would put on new black latex gloves and saw through the steak with speed and skill, despite the shadows.

He pitched it up, shook his hips implicitly, and used the tip of a knife to knock a slice of meat down the client’s throat, much like a sparrow feeds its chicks.

A diamond-set Patek Philippe watch is on his wrist, but he cuts the meat with his favorite F. Dick daily knife and blue plastic handle. At £ 17, it’s probably the cheapest in the room and certainly cheaper than the house salad at £ 23.

Few shows rival the obscenity of charcoal-grilled tomahawk steaks priced at over £ 700 wrapped in 24k gold foil.  It's a specialty of the new Nusr-Et Steakhouse in London.  Prices start in expensive volcanic hills and escalate in excessive gold-plated meat eruptions.

Few shows rival the obscenity of charcoal-grilled tomahawk steaks priced at over £ 700 wrapped in 24k gold foil. It’s a specialty of the new Nusr-Et Steakhouse in London. Prices start in expensive volcanic hills and escalate in excessive gold-plated meat eruptions.

While on tour I realized he was not without humor and got past the brooding embarrassment of a muscular Russian who didn’t want to eat steak in his hand like a baby. “No,” Salt Bae said. “I insist.” He is kind to children, kind to women and ike, and is on my way. Am I ready for the audience with the god of the flesh? It’s only now.

“Make sure she shoots a nice video,” he said, handing my phone to the waiter before tackling our meat order at the table.

He sliced ​​a 120-pound sirloin steak with Elan, who was an apprentice butcher in an Istanbul alley at a time when he had to stand on a box to get to the counter. He then slices a 100-pound Golden Burger, half-lifts it, and squeezes it until it’s fat-free. He does the same for the other half, looks me straight in the eye and says “WOW! In a low, thirsty voice.

He sprinkles a blizzard of salt all over the table, then steps closer to take a selfie, slaps his arms, and rubs his back in the convenient Instagram comfort. It is much fresher and smells better than the slaughterhouse I expected.

What is the secret to your success, I ask him, I think “9 pounds for cola” or “15 percent service charge” is the correct answer. Instead, he’s temporarily confused.

“Let me think about it,” he said, sliding into sexier slices to be macho like a man with his own range of seasonings.

Its salt includes Aegean sea salt, smoked salt, and puzzling black pepper salt, but it came back before I thought of the mystery.

“The secret to my success is to work 20 hours a day,” he says. But is it converted into a plate? A pretty decent burger made from his secret meat mix, but it’s nothing special. I remember Daniel Boulud’s Royal Burger at DB Bistro Modern in New York City was excellent.

The steak is ok, but the best taste is the salt. Only the tasteless and odorless gold leaf makes it all special. Eating a Golden Burger rests under a shameful cloud and hopes it is gone soon.

But who is this international carnal mystery man? There are a lot of rumors about Nusret. He smokes a cigar, travels in a private jet, and eats six egg whites for breakfast. He has nine children. No, he has 13! The son of a miner from eastern Turkey, he escaped poverty and entered the world of salted charm paved with gold and steak.

It is thanks to him that the east end of Knights Bridge smells of delicious barbecue and that customers line up in front of his restaurant. How did he do it? Turning meat into a luxurious ‘experience’ and paying a premium for people to ‘take the butcher to another level’ makes steak dinner an erotic experience by turning it into whatever he wants. ..

So if the sexy idea is to be a black plastic charmer with plastic gloves, swing a dick knife, and juice bread, baby, you’re in luck.

Nusr-Et. Park Tower Hotel, London SW1.

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